Article in the Saipan Tribune

"Granddaughter of WWII Veteran Explores Missed Connections," Saipan Tribune, Dec. 4, 2015

The Reason

Today Dad finally sent me some of the articles about Grandpa's wartime efforts, as well as some decade old correspondence between Dad and a guy named Bill in Saipan. I immediately googled Bill's name and found someone listed under the same name working in the federal courts here. I called the clerk's office before even thinking of what I would say, but that didn't stop me from blabbing the whole story as soon as Bill picked up the phone. Fortunately, I'd reached the correct Bill and we talked for half an hour about his work photographing the World War II memorabilia that had been kept in a shed at the American War Memorial before it was transferred to the National Park Archives in Guam years ago. Bill was very interested in my search for Grandpa, and gave me the names of a few people he recommended that I follow up with, including Yoshi Gabaldon, the son of the heroic Marine Guy Gabaldon, who I was surprised to learn still lives in Saipan!

I feel like I'm on such a steep learning curve here. I've read a lot about World War II, but really only focusing on the war in Europe (even The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich, which was like a million pages). I just finished reading Hiroshima, and I'm currently just over halfway through Volume II of Ian Toll's recently published trilogy on the war in the pacific, The Conquering Tide, which covers the years 1942-44. Hoping I will finish reading it just in time for the publication of Volume III. I contacted Toll when I started reading the book, to tell him about my impending move to Saipan and a little about Grandpa. He responded politely, but did not seem interested in including Grandpa's story in his book (albeit I'm sure it was already in the final editing stages at the time). There is definitely a part of me that wants Grandpa's story to be told and preserved somehow, but that is not really my reason for doing all of this.

What is my reason? I've really avoided answering that question my summarizing my journey as "finding Grandpa," but of course I won't find him, here or anywhere else. He's been gone over twenty years now. I want to learn more about him though, to really try to understand what he did here and why this place was so important to him that he returned several times. There is also a part of me that has always dreamed of finding "Toughie" or one of Grandpa's other Japanese "friends" who he was never able to find. The odds of that happening are extremely slim, however, considering that those guys would be pretty old by now, if they're even still alive. Ten years before his death, Grandpa told a reporter, 

"What brings on this syndrome to look back? Sizing up my life . . . I think I'm going to find one of those 16 (Japanese prisoners). I really do."

And I will readily admit that one of my reasons is simply the adventure inherent in this investigation, following Grandpa to the other side of the world and trying to find footprints he left decades ago. I know that I get that sense of adventure, and love of exploration and discovery from him, so it is only fitting that he becomes my adventure. Grandpa felt that he was "a part of Tinian," so there must be a part of him there, waiting to be discovered. And I want to discover whatever I can, because our time together was far too brief - he died suddenly, shortly after my thirteenth birthday - but I loved him dearly.

Me and Grandpa (1980)

"I decided to go back to Tinian to identify with the fascinating time I spent on the island. It was a very important part of my life and (the memory) had been fading. I wanted to get back and be a part of it, and it (to) be a part of me again."

- Sam Weintraub, on why he returned to the Marianas decades after the war, Mid-South Magazine, August 1983.

Searching for Grandpa

Many Americans do not even know that this small string of islands 3800 miles southwest of Hawaii is an American Commonwealth. A lot of people of my generation have never heard of Saipan or Tinian or the Northern Mariana Islands. But I have. I did not move here just to work on a tropical island (there are other islands closer to the mainland that would've been more convenient for that purpose). I wanted to come here, specifically, because of my family history.

My grandfather, Sam Weintraub, who passed away in 1993, served as G-2 (head of security and intelligence) for these islands during World War II. During his service here, he saved the lives of over 500 civilians and enemy soldiers, primarily by developing a method of "psychological warfare," convincing people to surrender instead of killing themselves. Grandpa kept a diary during the war, portions of which are included in Vincent Robilio's book, The Way It Was.

After the war, Grandpa attempted to locate some of the people who he had befriended and/or saved. He made several journeys back to the Marianas and met with survivors in Tokyo. I remember him talking about these trips and speaking fondly of the people he knew in Saipan and Tinian. So part of the reason I wanted to come here was to learn more about my grandfather, and understand what it was about this place that was so special to him. 

Even in photographs taken during the war, you can see the fascination in his eyes, his appreciation for his surroundings. Here is a photo of him on a boat during a reconnaissance mission in 1945. Grandpa is the man with the cap on, and I believe that is Tinian Island in the background.

I'm really proud of my Grandpa, and excited to hopefully learn more about him during my time living on the islands that he loved so much.

Salt

It seems silly to say, "it's a beautiful day," because every day is beautiful.

Today, however, is a beautiful day. There's a cool breeze and you can taste the salty ocean water as it brushes by.

Yesterday, my colleague told me that the trees on the main road leading to my house are "flame trees" and they bloom bright red in the summer. That will be amazing.

I am trying to buy a car, but that is not an easy task here. Cars are insanely expensive, and even used cars are priced like new ones. Trying to decide if I should just buy a new car that I can eventually sell, or go with a cheaper used one that will probably have mechanical issues. Making a budget has always been hard for me, so I'm trying to do it right this time!

My cousin is having surgery today, so my heart is really in Tennessee right now.

Love you, Gabe.

Tropical Weather

So I did my hair for my first full week of work...

Then this happened...

And I ended up like this...

So paradise does have its downsides.

Home Sweet Home

My biggest concern prior to my arrival on the island was finding a home. I had searched extensively online, contacted every local realtor, and followed up on every lead from my contacts here to no avail. The problem was twofold. First, a casino has been buying up property in preparation for its new building. Second, typhoon Soudelor had destroyed many homes and apartment buildings in late August, so those residents had taken up nearly all the available rental property. When I arrived here, two of my new colleagues were kind enough to take me house-hunting, but the only places we found were either too small, too expensive, or did not allow dogs. 

One night, while I was eating dinner at the Japanese restaurant at the Himawari Hotel, I met two men originally from the mainland who had been living on the island for many years. One of the men said he may know of a house that's available and said he would email me the land lady's contact info. Sure enough, I received an email the next day telling me to call "Darlene" about her house in Dan Dan village.

My colleague took me to see the house and meet Darlene the next day and I felt at home immediately, regarding both the house and the landlady. 

Darlene lives in California, but she is originally from Saipan and lived here for a decade. We bonded right away and agreed to the lease terms. And now I have a wonderful, spacious house on a hill with coconut trees, 

tropical flowers,

And many Papaya plants!

On a clear day, I can see the island of Tinian as well as one of the smaller islands:

My house has a huge kitchen (maybe ill actually try cooking occasionally?):

It is an open floor plan, with a large living room, dining area, and sitting room.

There are three spacious bedrooms and two bathrooms, so visitors welcome!

Here are pictures of the back of the house and the dogs enjoying themselves:

I guess the typhoon brought all these seashells to my yard. There are tons of them laying around!

My landlady's sister-in-law sold me a twin mattress set, but that's about all I have right now in terms of furniture. Apparently some of my furniture is on the island, but I don't know when they're delivering it.

One of the most fascinating things about living here is that there are no residential (or business) addresses! None! Only a few streets have names, and people usually do not refer to them by their actual names. The main three roads are Beach Road, Middle Road, and Back Road. Everyone has a post office box to receive mail, but if you need to tell someone where you live, you have to draw a map. When I opened my checking account at the local bank, the banker pulled out a map book so I could show him where my house was (I didn't do a very good job of that...). I got a pizza from Pizza Hut last night and noticed that they deliver. That would not be an easy job here.

My first "real" week of work begins tomorrow and I'm so excited! I spent some time at the office and court last week, but most of the time I was running around trying to get all my affairs in order. I will post more about my job in the near future.

I'm reading a great book about the WW2 campaign in the pacific. It's volume II of a trilogy by Ian Toll. This volume is called The Conquering Tide: War in the Pacific Islands, 1942-1944. I'm really enjoying it. 

Thanks for stopping by!

Rise Up

I've been listening to Eddie Vedder's soundtrack to Into the Wild a lot lately. One of the songs is about rising up - my favorite line: "find my direction magnetically." Feels a lot like that's how I ended up on an island in the middle of nowhere, but it doesn't matter how or why or whether I'll "accomplish" anything. All that matters is that I'm rising. Because I will never give up hope, and neither should you. Just keep rising, keep your head just above water and swim towards something. Anything.